Guide To Cholula

About Cholula

Just six miles west of the colonial city of Puebla is one of Mexico's historically important colonial towns: Cholula.

Cholula is best known for its archaeology park, which is host to Mexico's largest pyramid -- Pyramide Tepanapa. It's also the world's largest pyramid by volume: bigger in that sense, than the Great Pyramid of Cheops in Egypt.

At its zenith, Cholula was the second largest city in the land after Tenochtitlan. It is thought to have been an important religious and cultural center at the time. The city fell to the Olmecs sometime around 600AD, and again to the Toltecs about three hundred years later. By the time Hernan Cortes arrived in during the early part of the 16th Century, the city was under Aztec influence.

Hernan Cortes visited Cholula at the request of Montezuma; unbeknown to him, the request was a trap to ambush. However the nearby Tlaxacalans, who had befriended Cortes and who themselves were no friend to the Aztecs, tipped him off, and the Spaniards struck the first blow. Cholulans paid dearly for conspiring with Montezuma: Cortes massacred thousands of Cholulans and ordered that their pyramids be destroyed and churches built in their place.

So the legend goes, Cortes ordered the construction of 365 churches; one for each day of the year: in actual fact, the city has about 40; a considerable number for the amount of people who live here today. One of the city's most popular events is the Concert of Church Bells which takes place here in November -- see the Events section, below, for details.

Cholula is organized into two distinct areas: San Juan Cholula, and San Pedro Cholula. San Juan Cholula is where the main churches, museums are archaeological park are; San Pedro Cholula is the town's "night life" area, popular with students, particularly, as a campus of Puebla's University is situated there.

Although Cholula is an easy day trip from Puebla, it's worth considering using Cholula as a base to explore the area while you're in the region and to visit the "must see" villages of Tonantzintla and Acatepec (see Key Attractions, below).

There is another important benefit about staying overnight in Cholula: the majestic volcanoes -- Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl -- are best viewed early in the morning, before the heat of of the day creates mist and blocks a clear view of these awe-inspiring mountain volcanoes.

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Key Attractions

Colonial Center

The Zocalo, or main plaza, in Chamula provides a focal point for the town; as well as being Cholula's principal meeting place, it is also host to a number of restaurants, cafes, and small stores, situated behind the arches of the municipal palace facing the main plaza.

Churches near the Center

According to Legend, Hernan Cortes ordered one church to be built in Cholula for every day of the year; in actual fact the city is host to about 40, a considerable number of churches for a place of its size, nonetheless. The Ex Convento de San Gabriel, along the east side of the main Plaza, is a major landmark inside a walled garden hosting three churches: Capilla de Tercera Orden, Capilla Real and Templo de San Gabriel.

Church Bells Concert

One of Cholula's most famous (well attended) events is the annual concert of church bells, held in November each year (exact dates vary). The lights are all turned off, and townspeople carry candles to the center of town, to gather in communion and enjoy the music of the bells.

Cholula'a Archaeology Park

Cholula's 'claim to fame' on the world archaeology map, is that its archaeology park, known simply as "Zona Arqueologica de Cholula" is host to the world's largest pyramid--by volume. The Piramide Tepanapa, or 'Great Pyramid of Cholula', is the widest pyramid ever built. In its hey-day it measured 1476 feet across and 213 feet high; thus by volume it is larger than Ceops in Egypt. The Spanish built a church on top the pyramid, the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, although it's unclear whether the Spaniards were aware at the time that a pyramid existed neath the grassy mound.

Entrance the to park begins with a walk through a 1200 foot length of tunnel through the Great Pyramid. Some areas of the Great Pyramid have been excavated and a small proportion of the extensive tunnels which burrow through the pyramid structure are open to visitors; they are best experienced as part of a guided tour. Archaeologists dug around five miles of tunnels to explore the structure which is made up up several pyramids built on top of one another, although most of the tunnels are not open to the public.

The ancient city's main Plaza, Patio de los Altares, may also been seen on the south side of the archaeology park. The small museum, across the way from the entrance, was opened in 1971 and shows an excellent cut-out model of the pyramid and a reconstruction of the ancient site as well as artifacts recovered from the excavations at the archaeology site.

A walk up to the church, at the top of the pyramid rewards you with neoclassic architecture and good views of the city, the Valley of Puebla, and of the volcanoes -- although you'll need to attend the area in the morning for the best views of the volcanic mountains.

Picture Gallery: See the Photo Gallery of Cholula's Archaeology Park

The Volcanoes Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl

Mexico's two most famous volcanoes -- Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl -- tower over the region south of Mexico City and particularly so over Cholula. Afternoon mists usually block a clear view of the volcanoes, so it's important to be in Cholula in the early morning to enjoy the best views and get the best pictures.

Popocatepetl, known locally as "Popo", is Mexico's second highest peak, towering some 5,426 meters (17,800 feet) above sea level. Pico de Orizaba, Mexico's highest mountain, is just a couple of hundred meters taller. You can also see Pico de Orizaba from Cholula. Popocatepetl is Mexico's most active volcano. The last major eruption, which occurred in 1947, began the present cycle of volcanic activity inside the mountain. The last time Popo made any significant geological movements were in December 21, 1994, and again on January 23, 2001, when smoke and ash were expelled from the mountain and carried by prevailing winds. Today, smoke may be seen rising from the mouth of the volcano almost constantly.

Iztaccihuatl, a dormant volcano, is linked to Popo on the north side and has four peaks; the highest of which towers some 5,230 meters (17,150 feet) above sea level. The shape of the peaks resemble a female figure lying down, from where the Legend of Popo and Izta emanates - see below. Iztaccihuatl may always been seen with snow at her peaks.

Both Popo and Izta mountains may be seen from Mexico City, but only rarely these days as the capital's air pollution block the view most of the time. The mountains are situated just 45 nautical miles from the nation's capital and, on the very occasional clear day, usually shortly after the rainy season in late October or early November, the sheer majesty of these fine volcanoes may be enjoyed with a clear view from the capital. Cholula is the ideal place to enjoy clear views of both these volcanic mountains all year long.

The Legend of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl - Variations on the legend have been told through the years. According one Aztec Legend, Popo was a great warrior, who loved Izta. He went off to war and, when Izta heard false news of Popo's fall in battle, she died of a broken heart. When Popo returned to find his love gone, he vowed to always look over her and defend her. The shape of Iztaccihuatl mountain is that of a 'sleeping woman'. It is also said locally, that when "trouble is brewing in the world", Popo becomes active.

Volcano Pictures: See Pictures of the Volcanoes on the Cholula Gallery

Museums in Cholula

Cholula offers a number of museums and cultural centers for visitors.

Franciscan Library - This building, situated in the grounds of the Ex Convento de San Gabriel, has been beautifully restored and stocks some 24,000 tomes of public works dating back to the 16th and 17th Centuries. The works are principally with religion, theology, philosophy and fine art; they are published predominantly in Latin, Ancient Spanish, and Spanish. Open from Monday to Friday, 8am to 7pm. Website: http://biblio.udlap.mx/franciscana/

Museo del Caballero Aguila - For something different and unique, visit this museum which features a walking tour of the history of Cholula, said to the be longest continually occupied conurbation in North America, from pre-hispanic times to the present-day. Open 9am to 3pm daily except Wednesdays.

Casa de la Cultura - Cholula's Cultural Center features temporary exhibits and workshops covering a range of cultural themes including art, music, theater, paintings et al. Open weekdays 9am to 8pm, Saturdays 9am to 2pm.

Craft Works and Local Confectionery

Along Calle Morelos, you'll enjoy a range of art and craft shops selling locally produced works as well as the regions famous confectionery, made from natural fruit paste. The craft works on offer include ceramic tableware, red clay pottery, wrought iron-works, locally produced fireworks, blown glass works, cotton textile goods and wood sculptures.

Markets

Like all Mexican towns and cities, Cholula has an excellent assortment of lively and charismatic markets. Most of the local people here shop regularly at the main market in town, just two blocks from the main plaza on Calle Morelos. The market building houses a panoply of stalls selling all manner of goods and chattels, from fresh fruits, vegetables, meats and spices, to leather goods, toys, crafts, flowers, prepared foods (to eat in or take away), home wares, hardware and electrical goods. The market gets going at at around 10am daily and is open 'till late. It's well worth a visit, if only to enjoy the feel and atmosphere and scents of a genuine Mexican market in action.

San Andres Cholula

East of San Juan Cholula, behind the archaeology park, is San Andres Cholula. This side of the city is host to a campus of Puebla's Universidad de las Americas and is the place to go if you are looking for vibrant (and student oriented) night-life in Cholula. If you don't go to the "other" side of the town, you could spend a visit in Cholula and never know this 'student city' was there. San Andres cholula is also a place where an enormous number of shipping containers are stored: so many in fact, that an area of the district is known as "Container City". Some foreign visitors purposefully visit the area to see this man-made curiosity and take pictures.

Tonantzintla and Acatepec

One of the "must see, must do" local tours from Cholula is to visit the nearby villages of Tonantzintla and Acatepec. The tour is known as the "Ruta Franciscana", and takes in the two villages as well as the magnificent churches here. They are best experienced with the help of a local tour guide, to ensure you get the most of out of your visit, and especially to understand the culture and history of these places. Most hotels offer package tours which begin early in the morning and return you to Cholula later in the day.

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Getting There & Around

Getting There

By Air - The nearest airport is situated in Puebla. The road journey from the airport to Cholula lasts about twenty minutes. Connect to the Mexperience Travel Center for Mexico Flights.

By Bus - You can take a luxury bus from Mexico City's eastern bus terminal to the city of Puebla and, from there, get another bus (or a local cab) for the fifteen minute drive to Cholula. Connect to the Mexperience Travel Center for information about Bus Travel in Mexico.

By Car - To drive to Cholula from Mexico City, take Highway 150D South, or from Veracruz, 150D west. from Puebla, follow the signs to the Cholula, which is situated about six miles west of the city of Puebla. See additional information about Driving in Mexico and Mexico's Toll Roads here on Mexperience.

Getting Around

From the Airport - To get to Cholula from the airport, buy a ticket from the authorized taxi booth or take a bus to Puebla and change there for a second local bus to Cholula.

Taxis - Cholula's Taxis are not metered, so agree your price before you get in. Your hotel can arrange taxis for you. If you speak Spanish, you will have a distinct advantage and be able to negotiate a better price! Another good reason to Learn Spanish!

Rent a Car - If you plan to explore the region independently, renting a car would be a smart option as it will give you the freedom and flexibility to see more of the area and its surrounding attractions. You can rent a car from Mexico City or the airport at Puebla, see the Mexperience Travel Center for Car Rental in Mexico

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Local Events Calendar

Cholula is an important religious center and every day, something takes place here to commemorate a Saint or some other occasion. It's not unusual to see processions, parades or other community activities taking place on any given date. There is a three week local fair in September, attended principally by local people and featuring a variety of food and entertainment stalls and some mechanical rides. The Church Bells Concert takes place in November (dates vary) when the lights are all turned out after dusk and locals carry candles to the center of the town to listen and enjoy the music of the bells.

Some local hotels provide events too; for example, the first Sunday of every month, La Quinta Luna Hotel hosts a classical concert in the old chapel, where the acoustics are divine. The concert may be a choir, a trio, jazz band or a pianist. Guests enjoy the complimentary concert and it's open to the public, too, for a small entrance fee.

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Practical Information

Telephone: Connect to the Communications in Mexico Page on Mexperience for full information about keeping in touch and the latest table of national dialing codes.

Exchanging Currency: Banks with ATM machines are found in the areas around the main plaza (Zocalo). During business hours, they and the local Casas de Cambio will buy traveler's checks and cash from you as well. Read about currency exchange in Mexperience's Money Section.

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical cover and/or travel assistance cover when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

Viewing the Volcanoes: If you want the best views, we recommend you stay overnight in Cholula and see the volcanoes at sunrise (as the sun rises it illuminates the snow capped peaks beautifully) and again later in the morning (after breakfast) around 10am. From 11am onwards, mists develop and the view across to the majestic volcanic mountains which overlook the region, and Cholula in particular, begin to obscure the view.

Great Place for Talavera Ceramic ware: Cholula, like Puebla, is a fantastic place to acquire fine ceramic wares. You can find stores in town or contact Regina at La Quinta Luna Hotel, for further guidance and contacts for procuring fine Talavera.

Internet Access: Internet cafes are commonplace in Mexico - new ones open and old ones close all the time - but you won't have to look too hard to find one downtown and in the main tourist areas.

Active Volcano Alert: Popocatepetl is currently semi-active, although recent volcanic activity has settled down again. The last time ash was expelled from the mountain was January 2001. However the State of Puebla and in particular the immediate areas surrounding the volcano are on yellow alert. There is no immediate threat and it is quite safe to travel to both Puebla and Cholula and environs. Constant monitoring of volcanic activity takes place by Mexico's geological society, and if the situation changes, plenty of notice will be given.

Local Tourist Office: Connect to the Mexperience Travel Center for details of the nearest Tourist Information office.

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Accommodation

• Find a Hotel in Cholula

Restaurants

Here are a number of local restaurants in Cholula:

Villas Arqueologicas Hotel - Enjoy fine Mexican and French dining at the restaurant situated inside the grounds of the Villas Arqueologicas hotel.

Coriccis - Situated in the grounds of La Quinta Luna Hotel, you don't have to be a guest to enjoy a range of Italian foods, served in the beautifully restored colonial chapel or in the peaceful courtyard gardens of the property. Open for Lunch and Dinner from 1:30pm to 9:00pm.

Bar Reforma - According to locals, this bar, situated under the portals of the main plaza, serves the best Sangrias in the state of Puebla.

Cafetal - Also situated under the portals of the main plaza, Cafetal offers specialty coffees, hot and cold drinks and light snacks.

Mercado - The market, two blocks west of the main plaza, offers stalls serving hot foods and snacks which may be eaten at the market or wrapped for take-away.

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When Night Falls

San Juan Cholula is pretty quiet at night; the main night-life centers around the zocalo, where a row of cafe's and bars serve drinks, food and snacks until about 11pm.

For a more active night-life scene, you'll need to travel to the other side of town, to San Pedro Cholula, where bars and cafes, particularly Thursdays to Sundays, provide a vibrant night scene with particular emphasis on student night life (a campus of Puebla's University is situated there).

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What to Buy in Cholula

The state of Puebla is the home of Talavera ceramic-ware, and you can buy a selection of items including colorful tiles, crockery and dinnerware made from this hard-wearing (and "unbreakable") ceramic craft. The ceramic ware is not inexpensive anywhere, but Puebla and Cholula is the best place to buy it, as it is among the least expensive of the places in Mexico that sells it.

Many artists live in and around Cholula and offer their art for sale. If you contact Regina at La Quinta Luna hotel, she will point you in the direction of local artists you may arrange to meet and view their art, as well as fine purveyors of Talavera ceramic ware.

The markets here are a real treat. The city's principal market, situated in a covered stone building, proffers an opportunity to browse an authentic Mexican market selling everything from fresh foods, spices, local arts and crafts and curios. See Key Attractions, above, for details.

On Calle Morelos, you'll also find an ample range of art and crafts stores -- see Crafts works and Local Confectionery, in Key Attractions, above.

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Local Climate

Cholula enjoys year-round, spring-like weather. The climate is ideal for taking part in a variety of outdoor sports and activities and for taking in the local culture, architecture and scenery. Rains are seldom a feature here; when they do come they tend to be during the months of April thru November, but as with most monsoon areas, the rains tend to be fierce and brief in the late afternoon, leaving the evenings dry and cooled off. You may need a wool pullover for cooler mornings and evenings, especially in the winter months.

Live Weather Report (Puebla):

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