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Mexico Travel Diaries - Leg 9
Oaxaca City, Monte Alban, El Tule, The Bays of Huatulco
Oaxaca
As I have traveled through Mexico during the last 10 weeks, no place has been so warmly spoken of by people I have met along the way than the colonial treasure of Oaxaca (“Wah-Hah-Kah”) capital city of the State with the same name. Oaxaca is referred to as the “Soul of Mexico”; and has rich history, dating back to the Spanish Conquest, when missionaries trekked across the rugged mountains to convert the indigenous peoples of this region to Catholicism; the area was later given to Hernan Cortez by the Spanish Crown as a reward for his endeavors in Mexico. Oaxaca was also the birthplace of Benito Juarez, a revolutionary hero and Mexico’s first President as an Independent Republic.
It used to take 11 hours to travel by road from Mexico City to Oaxaca. The region’s topography hosts some of Mexico’s most rugged mountain terrain; the old road was a two-lane winding, slow and laborious road. But that was before. I travelled on a night bus from Mexico City’s TAPO Bus terminal: the eastern bus terminal close to the city’s airport.The bus to Oaxaca now runs on the new super-highway with four lanes connecting the Capital to Oaxaca City. Less than 6 hours later I had arrived in Oaxaca, early in the morning after a night run on the first class UNO bus with seats that recline back a long way making sleep easy.
I arrived at the my hotel Camino Real Oaxaca at around 6am, hosted at one of Mexico’s colonial estate treasures, owned by the State and operated by the experienced hotel group Camino Real. The colonial building is the ex-convent of Santa Catalina built by the Spanish as a nunnery; during its role as a convent, it attracted over 400 nuns; often young, poor women who decided to given their lives to serving God. In 1861, when Benito Juarez took over as Mexico’s first President, he introduced reform laws that abolished nun’s novice programs and nationalized all church property: The convent was closed and remained empty for a time, until it was commissioned as a prison and Municipal Building for the city. It was later used for criminal courts and army barracks; a storage area for seized goods; a money-collector’s office and it even provided a dormitory for the town’s crier at one point. In 1972, a government-sponsored restoration program began which lasted three years. The building was opened commercially as a top hotel and is now run professionally by Camino Real.
The hotel is perfectly situated just five minute’s walk away from the city center and a two minute walk from the impressive church of Santo Domingo; beautifully crafted outside with a detailed façade and towers; the inside of the church is a priceless work of art. There are thousands of churches in Mexico and many are wonderful, but Santo Domingo is one which many agree stands out above the rest.
After breakfast I spent some time wandering around the grounds of the hotel; exploring its courtyards and walkways that are bursting with bougainvillea; archways with the warm morning sun glistening through them; gardens and fountains that trickle quietly. Birdlife is everywhere. The setting is peaceful, relaxed and exudes a natural tranquility.
The swimming pool has been built in the old orchard; surrounded by the original colonial structure of archways and portals. When the pool was dug out, the builders found a collection of water pots, which have been turned into an eye-catching wall feature at one end of the restaurant.
The old church of the convent retains its original purpose and is also used for functions such as the Guelaguetza dinner and dance event every Friday evening at the Camino Real hotel. The Guelaguetza festival is huge in Oaxaca and takes place around the middle of July. It’s a festival celebrating all of the different dances and costumes from around Oaxaca State.
All of the rooms are decorated in traditional colonial style and feature high ceilings; like the rest of the building, wooden beams support exposed terracotta ceilings tiles. The original floor tiles have been retained and restored where possible; the rooms offer fans and air conditioning as well as all of the modern facilities you would expect from a hotel of this class, carefully interwoven and integrated so as not to spoil the original colonial style. The attention to detail is inspiring and a hotel stay at the Camino Real in Oaxaca perfectly complements the first-class colonial experience of the city itself.
Although taxis are plentiful and very reasonably priced in Oaxaca, virtually everything is within walking distance. Like most of Mexico's colonial cities, Oaxaca is a good place to wander around and explore. The streets immediately around the Zocalo (the main square) have been closed off to traffic; the local farmers were making a peaceful demonstration to their locally elected officials at the Government Palace when I arrived on the first afternoon; their trucks were allowed to park on one of the streets along the main square, but had left by early evening. Colourful balloons fill the air around the Zocalo; I have never seen as many people selling balloons any where else in Mexico. The edges of the Zocalo are lined with a selection of shops, but mainly feature cafes and restaurants that serve food and drink all day and night out in the open air; underneath the cool shade of the trees and behind the colonial portals. It’s the perfect place to relax and enjoy a meal while you watch the world go by and soak up the local ambience.
The city’s Cathedral is undergoing cleaning and restoration; this is the third colonial city I have visited on the journey that has been covered up with scaffolding and nylon netting; unhelpful for photographs, but I suppose it’s a sure signal that Mexico is serious about taking good care of its colonial heritage.
South of the Zocalo, you leave behind the cobbled streets and colonial heritage to find a more suburban Mexican city: this is where the people who live and work here shop, eat and buy their day-to-day supplies. The road is tarmac; the walkways are conventional. There are two excellent markets near here: the Mercado de Juarez and Mercado 20 de Noviembre. It’s fun to explore these: you get to see an abundance of fresh fruits, vegetables and meats, dried spices and chiles all weighed and prepared by hand; fresh bread baked today; local sweets, Oaxacan drinking chocolate (you must taste the chocolate here – it tastes awesomely good) and a number of dining areas where locals and even some
foreign visitors – mainly backpackers – stopped to savor prepared local food at the lowest prices anywhere. I like Mexican markets: Oaxacan Markets are particularly atmospheric – they are so alive with human activity and make up for all of the human interaction most modern, pre-fabricated hypermarkets have successfully evicted from their premises.
There is no shortage of good museums in Oaxaca; the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca is just behind the church of Santo Domingo on the north side and Museo Rufino Tamayo, the famous Mexican muralist are the two biggest; Oaxaca is very famous for its art also: arts, crafts and artisans are everywhere: I walked past countless stalls and markets where black-clay pots and pottery displaying a wealth of different patterns and designs were on display for sale. North-east of the city is the Auditorio Guelaguetza; the focus point for the Guelguetza festival in July and other major celebrations throughout the year.
I visited the city centre in the evening for a meal and to check out Oaxaca’s night life. Live music was playing from the gardens in the centre which was complemented by local musicians playing for people at restaurant tables. The centre is full enough to create a warm and lively atmosphere but no so packed that you can’t move and enjoy the space. The buildings are lit softly which accentuates the colonial feel. By 11pm the activity has calmed as people vacate the cafes and restaurants and make their way home or back to their hotel.
It’s Friday and Oaxaca is filling up with weekend trippers, mostly from Mexico City. The hotel is completely full; when I got back to the hotel this evening the bar was still overflowing with activity and sounds of people enjoying lively conversation; some of them came to the hotel for the Guleguetza dinner and dance show earlier in the evening; many others – couples and families in the main – have also come to stay and enjoy the ambience and charm of this exceptional colonial hotel.
The food in Oaxaca is some of tastiest and most varied in Mexico. I didn’t have the courage to eat the grasshoppers (served with or without legs) which can be eaten straight or as part of soups or inside tacos. They are apparently very nutritious; a staple diet of the Zapotecs who lived on Monte Alban, now a major archaeological center (see below for the dairy about that). Oaxacan tamales are famous too: they are usually served inside banana leaves; elsewhere in Mexico they are served in corn leaves (you can get sweet tamales made with raisins or savory ones with a variety of meats and chiles); Mole (“Moh-Leh”) is a chocolate based sauce which also has banana mixed in along with a variety of spices and chiles; usually served over chicken with rice and fresh vegetables to accompany it… don’t be put off by the brown color which derives from the chocolate) – taste it, it’s delicious.
I could have spent a week in Oaxaca and its surrounding areas. Each of the local villages surrounding the capital city of the State specializes in certain types of arts and crafts and has a market on each day of the week. For example, for flowers, textiles and pottery head to the village of Ocotlan on a Friday; I’ve updated the Mexperience guide to Oaxaca with the full list of villages, days and markets. If you are in search of some of Mexico’s finest artwork, textiles, crafts and pottery come to Oaxaca and plan to be here at least four days.
Oaxaca City is a pleasure to wander around in; it’s easy to navigate and although it does lack the nooks, crannies, hidden courtyards and surprises that I found exploring the colonial cities of Guanajuato and Zacatecas, it is still a wonderful colonial setting and a must-see destination of Mexico’s colonial heritage. Oaxaca is largely unknown by foreign visitors, most of the tourism here is national; it is truly a hidden gem waiting to be discovered and enjoyed. Because of the good roads and excellent air-links from Mexico City, Oaxaca is more accessible than ever before. The city and State offer rich culture, history, some of Mexico’s best food experiences and finest art and craftwork as well as breathtaking scenery. Nearby are two major archaeological centers; Mexico’s oldest tree dating back at least 2,000 years and a little further south, miles of stunningly attractive coastline and Mexico’s newest beach attraction: The bays of Huatulco. All of these places are planned stops on my journey.
Leaving Oaxaca
Having travelled to Oaxaca during the night, I decided to take a daytime bus back to Mexico City so that I could see the majestic Oaxacan landscape on the way. As we motor past the scenery outside, the height and scope of the mountains around this area becomes immediately apparent. As the sun begins to set, we are travelling towards Puebla, a colonial city I will visit later on the journey. As the Oaxacan mountains give way to a flatter landscape inland, a towering landmark is apparent far off in the distance: the mighty volcano Popocatepetl; and next to it the dormant Ixtacciuatl. The sun sets behind these two great natural landmarks leaving only a silhouette to be seen before darkness takes away the detail of the scene passing by. The orange lights of Mexico’s mammoth capital city ahead finally show themselves in the sky above, glowing in the distance ahead.
Monte Alban
You can arrange a tour to Monte Alban with any one of the local tour operators in Oaxaca; they will usually arrange ground transportation from your hotel, may provide food and drink and drop you back at your hotel afterwards. Alternatively, you can do-it-yourself; a local person advised me to go to Calle Mina, just a 10 minute walk south from the Zocalo, where inside the reception of the Hotel Rivera del Angel is the ticket office for a bus company that runs a regular service to and from the Archaeological center.
The ticket costs $24 pesos for a round trip; the pre-paid return schedule gives you just over 2 hours to explore the site; if you go back on a later bus, you pay an extra $12 pesos. I found 2 hours was plenty of time to get a good look around; although if you are particularly fond of archaeology, buy two single tickets and come back when you’re ready, it will be cheaper.
The most amazing thing about Monte Alban is that the ancient city was constructed at the top of a mountain which was prepared for the construction by levelling it off! As the bus climbs the narrow road hugging the edge of the mountainside, I look to the right and see Oaxaca below, slowly getting smaller as we rise into the sky and arrive at Monte Alban, situated at the point where three huge valleys meet, 1000 metres higher than Oaxaca City, which itself is 5000 feet above sea level. In the rainy season (May – September) the whole landscape is lush and green - bursting with fertility; during the dry season (now), the land looks more barren; the grass below my feet is a golden yellow; waiting for the monsoon rains to revive it again later this summer.
The entrance of the site takes me past the Juego de Pelota, (Ball Park) – a stadium where ancient ball games took place; to the east is one of the three valleys and Oaxaca below; to the south west is the old city with its ruined buildings waiting to be explored. There is a huge tree that provides shade from the scorching sun where you can sit and take in the view to the east; I discovered this was a great place to rest after the walk around Monte Alban. Bring suntan lotion and a hat with you; if you forget your hat and want one, don’t worry; I saw one of the market stalls perched at the entrance selling a wide variety to suit every taste.
I liked the fact that most of the ruins were off limits to walkers, which meant that you could enjoy them without crowds of people walking all over the old stonework. The Plataforma Sur, a large platform structure at the southern edge of the old city can be climbed and offers good views northward across the old city ruins.
At the northern edge of the site, is another large platform, Plataforma Norte, which is not as high but can be climbed too and offers good views and some nice walkways to explore some smaller structures behind it. English speaking guides will take you around the site and explain the structures and history to you for a fee; negotiate with them at the entrance. If you arrive off-season or during the week when it’s quieter, you’ll should able to negotiate a lower price.
Unlike the Aztec city ruins of Teotihuacan north of Mexico City, the ambulant vendors were not as prominent here; although there were quite a few people selling sculptures and mementoes of Zapotec pottery and symbols to take away as a reminder of the visit. Many speak broken English and are happy to barter sensibly.
The views around the edge of Monte Alban are visually remarkable. I would like to return during the rainy season when everything is green and fertile; people say that it’s beautiful then and it’s not hard to imagine why. Monte Alban has so much going for it as an attraction: the engineering marvel of its existence, the detail in the structures, witnessing the impressive achievement of an ancient culture having built a thriving city on top a mountain that they levelled off perfectly for the occasion… Monte Alban is without question a priceless inheritance from some of Mexico’s most ambitious and extraordinarily talented ancestors.
El Tule
There are buses every quarter of an hour from Oaxaca’s second-class bus station to Santa Maria del Tule, although I was pressed for time on my last day and hired a taxi which cost $150 pesos for the 20Km round-trip (including the cabby waiting for 45 minutes while I saw the tree). The tree resides inside a churchyard surrounded by a fence which no doubt prevents passers-by from inscribing 'John loves Susie' into its bark.
The tree is the oldest living (and growing) thing in Mexico and no doubt one of the oldest in the world; said to be over 2,000 years old, it dates back to the Romans. I pay the nominal $3 peso entrance fee and am handed a ticket, on the back of which are recorded the tree’s vital statistics: Technical name: Taxiodium Mucronatum, Age: “More than 2,000 years”, 58 meter circumference; 14 meter diameter; 42 meters high; volume 816 cubic metres; about ten times the size of my house in England. It weighs “636,107 tons” ... the scales they used to calculate that must have been pretty clever ;)
The village of Santa Maria de Tule has little else to offer from a tourist's viewpoint besides the tree, the church, and a small plaza that has been built up around it. There is a small artisan’s market nearby where you can buy local crafts and tree memorabilia.
The tree itself is impressive and is well worth the journey out to the village from Oaxaca. As I walked around it, I thought of all the history that had passed as this living thing was growing up: the height and fall of the Roman Empire, the Dark Ages, the Renaissance, the Spanish colonisation, era of the Great Explorers, the British Empire, colonisation of the Americas and subsequent revolutions that ensued; Mexico’s Independence from Spain; the industrial revolution, two world-wars, the cold war, the technological revolution… and even today it keeps growing, flourishing, getting bigger and older with every year that ticks by.
Huatulco
The road traffic from the south side of Mexico City is predictably congested on Monday morning as I take a cab to the airport for my flight to Huatulco, Mexico’s new tourism brainchild on the southern coast of Oaxaca State. You can get to Huatulco from Oaxaca City, across a mountainous road which takes 8-10 hours to cross; it’s only about 160Km long, but the terrain makes the going slow. A new super-highway is being built as I write and according to local reports will open late this year; although this is Mexico, where time and timescale is an inexact science.
You can fly on a Cessna across the mountains from Oaxaca city to Huatulco which avoids the mountainous road; I returned to Mexico City for logistical reasons; a visit to Huatulco should be an integral part of a visit to Oaxaca City and its surrounds; once the new road is open, it will take just 2-3 hours to make the journey from one destination to the other and visitors will be able to enjoy a colonial and beach experience easily and conveniently, surrounded by some of the most amazingly stunning scenery and culture Mexico has to offer.
Huatulco is an exciting part of Mexico; it offers a comfortable resort experience for those who want to be looked after in style and also offers the opportunity to experience the area in more modestly priced accommodation; so unlike some resort areas, you are not locked out of the beauty if you can’t afford luxury resort rates.
There is no specific destination with the name of Huatulco, which is most confusing to newcomers; the closest match, Santa Cruz de Huatulco, is just known locally as Santa Cruz. Las Bahias de Huatulco (The Bays of Huatulco) is the full name of this area: there are nine bays in total; three have been developed, a fourth is planned, and the fate of the other five will depend on politics and economics; although in some cases, nature itself will dictate the final outcome: some beaches cannot be used practically for tourism because of the strong ocean undertows on them.
Tangolunda Bay is one of the three bays which has been developed and is situated about 4Km south of La Crucecita, the main town in the area. Tangolunda is host to several of Huatulco’s main resort developments, including the Camino Real’s Zaashila Resort where I am staying for my visit here.
The Zaashila was designed by Sordo Madaleno, a famous Mexican architect who introduced a typical Mediterranean feel complemented by strong Mexican colors to this design; all interwoven within tastefully landscaped gardens and complemented by a uniquely shaped swimming pool which provides a focus point at the centre of the hotel’s grounds.
All of the rooms proffer a view to the Pacific Ocean and many have a private plunge pool. The rooms are extremely well appointed with all of amenities you could possibly wish for. An unusual feature which I thought was a good idea for couples and families was a double-wash basin and vanity unit; since I am traveling alone, it only served to give me one more executive decision to make each day - which side do I use? ;o)
The house keeper stops by around 4 times a day; once to clean, twice to refresh towels and clean the bathroom if required (in case you take showers during the day); and once again in the evening to turn down the beds and leave a chocolate on the pillow. This last round is standard at all of the Camino Real hotels I have stayed at during the journey.
Huatulco is remote and exceptionally beautiful. The Sierra Madre Mountains stop short to make way for soft beaches of white and light golden sands that stretch out to greet turquoise and light green crystal waters; in some places sharp rock formations from the mountain's edges plunge into the Pacific Ocean below. In the rainy season (May – September) the mountains and valleys become layered with lush green foliage.
I spent my first afternoon wandering around to get acquainted with the hotel and enjoyed a lunch at the hotel’s restaurant by the beach. I sat drinking a Corona beer “Michelada” (frosted glass with a salted rim + the juice of 1 fresh lime squeezed into the bottom + light beer poured in) looking out across a clear blue sky and the Pacific Ocean. I enjoyed fresh seafood and watched blackbirds swoop in, explore the terrain, and fly off again. A cool breeze blew through the open air restaurant, taking the edge off the intense afternoon heat.
The Zaashila’s beach is exceptionally pleasant; long enough to enjoy a good walk as clear waters lap the sands and cool my feet as I wander along the edge of the tide line, gazing out into an ocean that disappears into the horizon against a cloudless, perfect blue sky. The straw palapas at the back edge of the beach area provide shade and shelter from the sun for those who want to laze on the beach, read, relax or chat while listening to the sound of the Pacific waves landing gently on the beach just ahead.
The breakfast buffet offers a continental or full breakfast option; choose fragrant fresh fruits, cereals and sweet breads or push your culinary boat out by following up with an omelette made to order and a selection of Mexican and Oaxacan hot breakfast favourites… I sit and enjoy them in the open air, overlooking the Pacific Ocean with the warm morning sunshine pouring in.
After breakfast I take a taxi into town. The taxi driver sees my tripod and says “I can take you to some viewing points as well if you like”. I agree and we stop at a few coastal look-out points in-between the cabby telling me about the local area and some of the main attractions. I ask him why it’s relatively quiet in the area now. “It’s off-season, but at Easter you can’t move for people here” he says, and continues “July and August are very busy too; and the Christmas trade of course” They would like to see more people here off-season to support the local economy and provide more jobs. “Europeans could come here now and leave the cold behind” he says, as I mention that the weather in England is close to freezing.
If you take the bus to Huatulco it will leave you in the centre of La Crucecita, which isn’t quite a colonial town, but neither is it a run-of-mill urbanised Mexican town; it’s a hybrid. It features a town square, a church and local facilities and amenities like schools, hospitals, mini-markets, and so on for the people who live here; primarily the people who service the local tourism industry.
Before the government earmarked the area for development, the locals (who were mainly folk making a simple living from the sea) lived in the Bahia de Santa Cruz (Santa Cruz bay, not to be confused with Santa Cruz, the town about 20 Km inland from here). They were moved to La Crucecita following the decision to develop the area. The town is also host to a number of moderately-priced hotels and low cost hostels and posadas away from the beach; you can also find a selection of good bars, restaurants, local shops, a couple of pharmacies, and several internet café’s here.
After exploring the area around the main square in La Crucecita, I ask for directions to walk to La Bahia de Santa Cruz, and on my way I spy a textile factory (on the corner of Bugambilia and Cocotillo), where the clothes and garments, rugs and other items being woven on hand powered jennies can be bought directly from the creators in the store just behind; the quality is exceptionally good. My walk to the bay of Santa Cruz takes about 15 minutes, up and over the hill that separates it from La Crucecita. The pathway is well paved and trees along the whole route give me shade from the intense sun, which now high-up in the midday sky.
The beach on the bay is open to the public; just behind it are a number of beach-front restaurants that have erected rustic palm-leaf roofs and placed plastic garden underneath them. They provide food and drink all day long. I arrive to discover a photographer taking pictures of an attractive looking woman in a bathing suit posing on a jet-ski; no doubt this year’s publicity shot for one of the local jet-ski operators. The beach is quiet; only the sound of the crane building the ugly-looking cruise-ship pier can be heard above the sound of the waves. The pier is a concrete eyesore that stretches out from the beach into the sea, but a necessary economic accessory that will enable cruise ships bringing much needed trade to the local communities here. Perhaps it will look better when it’s finished.
Behind the bay is a nice park featuring a bandstand complete with a coffee and ice-cream store below it; wooden tables and chairs are provided under the shade of the surrounding trees where people meet and enjoy quiet conversation. The atmosphere is relaxed; friendly and tranquil. I meet a couple from Texas, who are staying at the hotel, enjoying an ice-cream on one of the park benches. They left their kids in the States and came to Huatulco looking for a quiet and relaxing holiday together. “Our kids would find the Zaashila a bit too quiet” they remark, “The all-inclusive resort here looks more appropriate if we were with them, but for what we’ve come for – peace and relaxation – the Zaashila is absolutely perfect, we couldn’t have wished for better”. Their children range from adolescent to early twenties; most of the children I saw at the Zaashila (and similar hotels on this journey) have been much younger; often toddlers.
The bay is also host to a harbour from where the Fiesta and Tequila tour boats depart daily, giving guided tours of the surrounding bays. Another landmark to watch out for is open-air church; the first of its kind I have ever seen in Mexico.
Through a conversation I had with one of the other hotel guests, I was connected to Pam Vigil, an American lady who has lived in Huatulco for four years now and teaches English, as well as organising weddings for foreigners wanting to get married in the exceptional surroundings Huatulco offers. Pam is a keen promoter and champion of the Huatulco area.
Tour of the Bays
I meet for breakfast with Pam down at one of the restaurants on the Bay of Santa Cruz and spend a while chatting about the area, the amenities and the highlights of Huatulco. On the advice of the Zaashila’s general manager, I want to take a boat tour of the bays today; so Pam takes me to the harbor at the bay where we talk with Fabio, an owner of a six-seat boat with an outboard motor. We agree a price for a four-hour trip, and meet up again just before 1pm to start on our tour of the bays.
After visiting Tangolounda Bay we turn around and travel northwards; our destination is the bay of San Agustin – the bay which marks the start of the Bays of Huatulco. We slow down as we pass several of the bays en-route to admire the majesty of the natural brilliance this small piece of the world shares with us and to take a few pictures.
All of the bays are still undeveloped; unspoiled and basking in their natural opulence. The waters close to the shore and those splashing on the rocky areas reveal its turquoise and green clarity. There is lots of live coral under these waters; the bay called Las Indias is a favourite spot for snorkelling; we see three private boats anchored here as we drift slowly past.
Just under two hours later we arrive at the last bay; San Agustin (Saint Augustine). To get here you need to travel by boat (as we did) or be prepared to drive slowly on dirt road for over half of the journey by car. Along the beachfront is a selection of simple restaurants and cafes, although there are no modern facilities or development here; you can spend a night or two on this bay under the stars on a hammock if you like. I step out of the boat and into the clear waters that are lapping against the beach.
Pam recognises some friends of hers under the shade of one of the beach cafes: Wayne and Macy who have a home which is also a Bed & Breakfast overlooking Tangolunda Bay. After a refreshing drink, I take a walk along the white-sand beach, towards an amazing natural landmark which features on many postcards that advertise Huatulco; a uniquely shaped tree trunk rising out from the sandy beach. I took my own postcard picture and enjoyed walking back along this wonderful stretch of soft sandy beach..
After the walk back, it’s time to return to the Bay of Santa Cruz, but our Captain has vanished! We talk with a few of the locals and say goodbye to Wayne & Macy and their family who are also on their way back home. Our Captain appears from behind one of the restaurants; he hadn’t eaten since breakfast and was long overdue for a feed. He comes back and says “ouch hot!” swallowing the remnants of his drink to help cool off the effects of the spicy devilled fish fillet he enjoyed for his lunch.
We boat back to the harbor at full speed which takes about 40 minutes. There’s a real sense of freedom and opportunity when you’re out on the ocean; the boat is continually whisked up and carried over the waves and down again as you glide across a seemingly impossible platform of water. On the way back I watch as the sun swings around to the west and sinks slowly into the horizon. The moon is already out and hangs inspiringly a light blue evening sky. I gaze out to sea and see nothing but water and the horizon in the distance. Sardines slice across the water from time to time; sea turtles are a common sight around these parts; but this evening we are privileged with the view of dolphins frolicking in the waters. I watch with a huge grin as they jump out of the water; twist around effortlessly like dancers in the wind and dive back into the Pacific Ocean as the show, softly lit by the orange glow of a setting sun, is presented freely to us as visiting guests on this wild Ocean; it’s a perfect ending to a perfect afternoon. As we enter the harbour the engine stalls; we’ve run out fuel… we got back just in time to drift into port.
Huatulco is also a perfect destination for Eco and Adventure tourism. A little inland you’ll find wonderful areas of outstanding natural beauty waiting to be enjoyed; snorkelling and SCUBA is great here; the mountains provide a range of adventure experiences. There are specialists and tour operators based locally who will provide you with everything you need to enjoy the wealth of travel experiences on offer.
La Crucecita comes alive at night; the local restaurants fill up; the town square buzzes with excitement as people gather for evening activities and entertainment. After a meal at one of the restaurants just off the main square, Pam and I walk around the area in the warm evening air as she tells me more about the area and the people that live here. So many locals know and greet her as we walk past that it’s like accompanying a local celebrity on a walk-about; many of the people are or have been her language students at one time.
The next morning I take a taxi from the hotel to the airport for my flight back to Mexico City. The airport at Huatulco looks more like a well-presented beach bar than an airport with its straw-roof and beach-hut feel. As the plane takes off I see Huatulco’s landscape and breathtaking bays from the sky above. My final thoughts are not thoughts but feelings: I sense a need to come back to Huatulco again very soon.
